Maputo

Life in Maputo

Sunset on the beach

Here are my first impressions: 

In many ways life here in Maputo is as it is in any urban centre:  Roads go everywhere with questionable urban planning (all roads are paved in the core of the city and it seems there are mostly dirt roads off the main roads). There is lots of traffic, tall buildings, fancy areas, poorer areas, urban sprawl, busy people, stores, office buildings etc.  However, it is also strikingly very different.  One example: Next to mansions along the beach front there are unfinished buildings essentially rotting away. One wonders what happened?????  Another striking difference is that while there is significant construction happening everywhere in the city there are few to no cranes or heavy equipment.  It is all done by hand! And I mean by hand, whether pouring concrete or carrying heavy loads one sees people doing it.  Yet another example is while there are a number of super markets in the city bulging with food of all kinds from all over the world, and various specialized Deli\"s, there are also the ladies selling fresh fruit and veggies on the street. Sierra seems to shop from them all including the two ladies in front of the Deli where she bought Udon noodles .  Oh and there is a GIANT Chinese hotel that looks luxurious, is super well tended and is totally void of guests but has a grocery store in the compound which makes fresh tofu daily.  

Since Khi and I arrived, life is settling into a routine for the family during the week.  Marisella (Sierra\"s household amanuensis) arrives before 7 a.m to start work. In addition to being Nanny she does just about everything else in the house which is not small feat because all the floors inside the house are white tile (very Pablo Escobarish).  I\"d be crazed trying to keep them clean but she considers it a point of pride (I think) that they are immaculate which is next to impossible with a 5 year old and the two kids (8 and 4) who live in the other house in the compound.   Here is what I mean

White floors and white walls. Art is soon to be installed

    (yes, that is Grandma Louise\"s coffee table)

The routine is that Sierra leaves for the hospital before 8. Breakfast and then Khi and I do Ecole/School for two hours with "recess" breaks when needed.  As I wrote previously, schools are closed in Mozambique to curb the Delta surge so online is happening for the older kids who go to private schools but not for kindergarten so I am teacher M-F  in the morning.  We do letters and numbers, puzzles and other hand-eye type activities. It is actually fun.  Khi is enthusiastic but for how long we will find out. 

After Grannie\"s lessons the fun begins.  Khi has "activities" in the late morning.  Some days are swimming 

and some days are capoeria

After lessons and activities the three kids play with each other between the two houses that comprise the compound.  It basically is one big vertical compound, Sierra lives in the lower house and up a flight of stairs ( about 70 steps) are Tiago and Gigi\"s family.  All three kids are in heaven playing with each other because contact with other kids is so limited. Soccer is currently the favourite game on the driveway. Mario the guard is an angel and kicks the ball for the kids to kick back.   Both sets of parents are thrilled because the kids are happy playing as a threesome and there is more "quiet" time (not exactly but perhaps more space) for the adults.

Speaking of soccer, Friday afternoons are soccer with a pod of South African kids 5-8 years old but this Friday we are going on an adventure to Anvil Bay, a beach safari style camp inside a national park that was established to protect the last remaining herd of elephants in southern Mozambique.  I also read that the reserve protects a unique coastal ecosystem and is a biodiversity hotspot.  Can\"t wait!! And, there are tons of birds.  I have my binocs and my old Southern African Bird book so stay tuned.

For those of you who want to see where will be staying , check out the website:    https://anvilbay.com.                       Locals get a different rate which is definitely much more affordable so off we are going.   

Finally, because day in North America is night here and vice versa I read the morning news with a glass of wine  in the late afternoon.  I basically have no idea of what is going on in Mozambique because I speak almost no Portuguese.  My only saving grace is that many words are similar to Spanish so what I can remember from the limited Spanish learned in Costa Rica is helpful, somewhat.  As for the rest of the world, it is far easier on one\"s mind and soul to feel so cut off from the craziness of the world:  Covid (well not quite), Afghanistan, the Canadian election (still rooting for Elizabeth to be my MP) , fires, drought, hurricanes etc.   Here on the coast it is pretty idyllic, the  photo below is of the "Blue Moon" taken from one of the verandas which faces the ocean and is conducive to what is often said in Costa Rica, "Pura Vida".

All for today.  Thinking I\"ll take Khi to the playground and an ice cream cone...

Love from Maputo

ps. came home and unfortunately because I was tired and went to the kitchen to pour myself a glass a wine Khi went in the garage and poured turpentine all over the floor.  Ooops. Just a day in the life....